بهینه‌سازی رنگرزی پشم فرش دستباف با عصاره میوه اوپنتیا: ارزیابی ویژگی‌های رنگی و پایداری

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسندگان

1 گروه فرش، دانشکده هنرهای صناعی، دانشگاه هنر شیراز، شیراز، ایران، کدپستی: 7146696989

2 گروه مهندسی نساجی و پوشاک، واحد قائم‌شهر، دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی، قائم‌شهر، ایران، صندوق پستی: 163

3 گروه شیمی، واحد قائم‌شهر، دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی، قائم‌شهر، ایران، صندوق‌پستی: 163

10.30509/jcst.2025.167490.1254

چکیده

این پژوهش به بررسی قابلیت استفاده از عصاره میوه اوپنتیا به عنوان یک رنگزای طبیعی در رنگرزی نخ‌های پشمی فرش دستباف می‌پردازد. در این مطالعه با هدف ارائه رویکردی پایدار و زیست‌محیطی برای رنگرزی منسوجات، تأثیر عوامل مهم شامل غلظت رنگزا (30-100 درصد)، غلظت دندانه (0-10 درصد)، دما (°C 100-30)، زمان (20-100 دقیقه) و pH (11-3) بر ویژگی‌های رنگی و پایداری رنگ ارزیابی شد. عصاره‌گیری به روش خیساندن انجام گرفت و حضور ترکیبات موثره بتالائین ((Betalain با روش‌های طیف‌سنجی تأیید گردید. تحلیل‌ها نشان داد که عصاره اوپنتیا می‌تواند طیف رنگی متنوعی از قرمز تا قهوه‌ای ایجاد کند. بهترین نتایج در دمای °C 80 ، زمان 90 دقیقه و 5/0 ± 5/5 pH حاصل شد. علاوه بر این، اثر دندانه‌های فلزی مختلف بر ثبات رنگ بررسی گردید؛ دندانه آهن بهترین ثبات شستشویی و دندانه مس بیشترین ثبات نوری را فراهم کرد. مطالعات آماری تأثیر معنادار تمامی متغیرهای فرایند را بر شاخص‌های رنگی، شامل قدرت رنگی (K/S)، خلوص رنگی (C*)، زاویه فام h°)) و ثبات شستشویی و نوری تأیید کردند ( 001/0p < ). با این حال، میزان تأثیر متغیرها بر هر عامل متفاوت بود؛ به عنوان مثال، تغییرات دما بیشترین تأثیر را بر خلوص رنگ داشت، در حالی که دندانه در بهبود زاویه فام و ثبات نقش کلیدی ایفا کرد. از طرفی دیگر نتایج نشان داد که انتخاب شرایط بهینه رنگرزی مناسب می‌تواند ضمن دستیابی به خواص رنگی مطلوب، ویژگی‌های مکانیکی مناسب نخ پشمی را نیز حفظ کند. این پژوهش نشان داد که عصاره اوپنتیا به عنوان یک رنگزای طبیعی پتانسیل بالایی در ایجاد سایه‌های رنگی متنوع با ثبات مطلوب دارد و استفاده از آن می‌تواند رویکردی کارآمد برای توسعه فرایندهای رنگرزی پایدار و کاهش اثرات زیست‌محیطی باشد.

کلیدواژه‌ها

موضوعات

عنوان مقاله [English]

Optimization of Wool Yarn Dyeing for Handwoven Carpets Using Opuntia Fruit Extract: Color Properties and Fastness Evaluation

نویسندگان [English]

  • Saeedeh Rafiei 1
  • Peiman Valipour 2
  • Omid Alaie 2
  • Zinatossadat Hosseini 3
1 Carpet Department, Faculty of Applied Arts, Shiraz University of Art, P.O. Code: 7146696989, Shiraz, Iran.
2 Department of Textile, Apparel and Fashion, Qaemshahr Branch, Islamic Azad University, P.O. Box:163, Qaemshahr, Iran
3 Department of Chemistry, Qaemshahr Branch, Islamic Azad University, P.O. Box:163, Qaemshahr, Iran
چکیده [English]

This study investigates the potential application of Opuntia fruit extract as a natural dye for wool fibers in hand-woven carpets. Adopting a sustainable and eco-conscious textile dyeing approach, we systematically evaluated critical parameters including dye concentration (30-100 %), mordant concentration (0-10 %), temperature (30-
100 °C), duration (20-100 min), and pH (3-11) on color characteristics and fastness properties. The aqueous extraction method yielded betalain pigments, confirmed through spectroscopic analysis. Results demonstrated the capacity of Opuntia extract to produce a diverse color spectrum, ranging from red to brown. Optimal dyeing conditions were achieved at 80 °C for 90 minutes with pH 5.5±0.5. Metal mordants significantly influenced color fastness: iron mordant delivered superior wash fastness, while copper mordant enhanced light fastness. Statistical analysis (p<0.001) confirmed all process variables significantly affected colorimetric indices - including color strength (K/S), chroma (C*), hue angle (h°) - and fastness properties. Notably, temperature exerted a dominant influence on color purity, whereas mordants primarily governed hue stability and fastness. The optimized dyeing protocol maintained favorable mechanical properties of wool fibers while achieving excellent color characteristics. This research establishes Opuntia as a high-potential natural dye source capable of producing stable, vibrant hues. Its implementation offers an effective strategy for developing sustainable textile dyeing processes with reduced environmental impact.

کلیدواژه‌ها [English]

  • Natural dyeing
  • Opuntia
  • wool fibers
  • RSM optimization
  • color fastness
  • handwoven carpet

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